(Double-check that it matches the gauge.) Using the crimping section of the wire cutters (it should be marked so that you correctly match the gauge), firmly squeeze the connector so that the connector's metal tubing shuts close around one of the bare wires. Take both negative ends of bare wire and insert them into opposite sides of a crimp connector. You can separate the individual wires (positive and negative terminals) by an inch, so you have room to work with them. Using the wire cutters, strip off the exterior jacket/insulation so that all four ends have a quarter-inch of exposed copper wire. If you're unsure, test the speaker wires with a battery. Take one set of wires that you intend to splice and place the ends/terminals next to each other-negative to negative (-), positive to positive (+). Repeat this process with any remaining speakers on the list. Label the pairs of wires, set them aside, and cross the speaker off your notes. Give yourself an extra inch or so and make the cut using the wire strippers. This is how much you'll cut from the spool of speaker wire. Calculate the difference between the length of wire you have versus what the speaker needs. Cross those speakers off your notes so that you know they've been accounted for.Ĭhoose any remaining wire and assign it to a speaker with a label. If you have wires that don't need splicing, label them with the assigned speaker and set them aside. Also, double-check that the wires are the proper gauge. There's a chance that some of those wires will be the right length. When finished, measure the speaker wire you set aside earlier and compare it to your notes. Write down the numbers along with the speaker location (for example, front left/right, center, or surround left/right) in a notepad. It's better to overestimate slightly than underestimate, as slack is easy to manage, and splicing involves a bit of trimming anyway. Use the measuring tape and tally the distances. The approach I prefer, and the approach that the sub-contractors I have used also preferred, is to use a solder-connector instead of a crimp connector, and solder three wires unto the same terminal, rather than trying to crimp a terminal around three wires.After the speakers have been placed, determine the length of wire required to connect each speaker to the stereo system. And no they can not be mitigated if you use this approach, in fact I can promise you that you will have reliability issues. Yes if you choose to combine multiple wires into one crimp then you absolutely need to be wary of reliability issues. Should I be aware of any reliability issues? Can these be controlled or mitigated?
If you pair multiple wires in one crimp terminal then you can no longer trust the holding-force specification of the crimp, nor can you be sure of the crimping resistance or current rating if you do that.Ĭrimp terminals might seem like a simple/primitive technology, but in reality good quality crimp terminals are meticulously designed to work with a specific type and gauge of wire. No it is definitely not the approach I would recommend Is this the recommended approach? If not, what would you advice? First let me say that at one point it was my full-time job to design cable harnesses and documentation for these, and to outsource the production to sub-contractors who specialized in manufacturing cable-harnesses.
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